22 Comments
  1. Kim Jong Il says

    Should try the Mitakon 35mm F0.95. I use it on an X-T10. You can use a really low ISO when the lens is wide open. 1600 or lower
    I also recommend the Takumar 200mm F4. The quality of that lens is outstanding. You can pick them up for around $30

  2. hintzofcolorconcepts says

    Red flashlights are better night photography

  3. Jacob Hansen says

    "the most important thing and the thing I see so many people messing up is their focus"
    as the video is out of focus heh

  4. GERMAINE445 says

    Thank you for your video. I learned a lot in a short time.

  5. Hundred says

    looks awesome

  6. iamneallyons says

    Nick, awesome video and really really well presented and put across.. earned my sub/bell notif and like! thanks man.

  7. Urszula Gromadzka says

    Dibe

  8. Carl Reid says

    Great video Nick I'm new to photography and recently got my first mirrorless Fuji so will use all your tips to grab me some Milky Way shots, thanks for explaining the light fill etc of the tree found that super helpful as I read about it in a magazine but the explanation left me short, but no longer thanks to you! I'm now subscribed too 😉 cheers
    Carl

  9. Darth Kakarot says

    Is he stitching or stacking in post?

  10. mortenthorpe says

    Iso and cropped sensors have no relation to the final result. The final result, which can or cannot be grainy, has only to do with the fact that the pixel pitch of the cropped sensor at e.g. 24 mpix will have more noise than a 24 mpix sensor which is full frame. A 12 mpix cropped sensor will have less noise at the same iso (same processing camera), than a 24 mpix full frame… a typical crop factor is 1.5 – canon uses 1.6 to get away with cheaper lens construction for those cameras. So a 1:1 comparable result on a 24 mpix full frame would be a cropped at 1.5 = 24/(1.5*1.5) ~ 10 mpix

  11. Ion Morcodeanu says

    can you share the link from your big lantern?

    thanks

  12. LAXMI VERMA says

    Did I use my 50mm 1.8 lens for it

  13. Brian Kenneth Kondas says

    Starting around 4:00 when your head is moving around it is going in and out of focus. You’re only moving a few inches so your depth of field is very shallow. I have two suggestions: Move the camera further away for a deeper depth of field, or use a higher f-stop. I understand it’s very dark and for haps your light source is not bright enough for a smaller aperture. In the beginning of the video it seemed you were using a different light source such as your cars headlights. that lighting was better because it had more dimension on your face. The lighting around 4:00 is very flat and without much dimension.

  14. John McClane says

    came here and subscribed

  15. Toastyparty says

    great video. any turorialas on post?

  16. No One says

    The final image was worth the wait, wow.

  17. Big al says

    Brilliant video very helpful mate now subscribed.
    Planning to try for the second time on Friday night for the Milky way pic.

  18. Zac Conner says

    Can I paint this photo in a future video? I will give credit and link to this video.

  19. William Tolbirt says

    Dude — the first pic with the ambient light from the car was better than the second! I love the way it lit up the foreground. I call those happy accidents. 🙂

  20. Andromeda M31 says

    Great video!

  21. Vijay kumar says

    Thank you very much, you explained it in very simple way.

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