Aperture & f/stops don’t have to be complicated. We start the video by demonstrating what you absolutely must understand: how to change your f/stops to get the most important parts of your picture sharp. For the more advanced photographers, we dig deep into the technical aspects.
This video has 12 parts:
1. Aperture & Depth-of-field Essentials (0:35). The most important things you need to know about f/stop: how to get everything in focus.
2. The Focal Plane (2:12). The focal plane is two dimensional, up & down and left & right. Moving forward or back from your focal plane will make a subject increasingly blurry.
3. Exposure & f/stop (3:23). Low f/stop numbers let more light in, while high f/stop numbers let less light in.
4. The Iris & f/stop Numbers (4:03). Low f/stop numbers have a big iris opening, while high f/stop numbers have a small iris opening.
5. f/stop Math (5:00). Tony & Chelsea explain the math behind those strange f/stop numbers.
6. Depth-of-Field (5:40). Some people use depth-of-field calculators, but they’re not reliable–and we show you why.
7. Hyperfocal Distance (7:19). Likewise, hyperfocal distance doesn’t necessary work as you might expect.
8. Background Blur (8:00). Low f/stop numbers blur your background.
9. Sharpness & The Sweet Spot (8:43). Your lens is the sharpest at low or moderate f/stop numbers. We show you how to find your sweet spot.
10. Chromatic Aberration (10:11). At low f/stop numbers, you might get purple or green fringes in high-contrast parts of your picture. Fortunately, that’s easy to fix.
11. Vignetting (10:54). At low f/stop numbers, the corners of your pictures will often be darker. It’s also easy to fix.
12. Summary (11:48)
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Zooming in also increases the fstop.
Any chance I can share a picture with you guys for some constructive feedback??
Tony & Chelsea are the Batman & Robin in the photography world
How do you adjust focus number?
You guys are a cute couple! Also great tutorial, speed (delivery) and information (especially the fractions/exponents/root 2) were perfectly paced.
Wonderful
Holy shit
Chelsea is beautiful
Regarding diffraction, it’s more of a factor than most people think. When the Airy disk is larger than the sensor cell, you lose resolution. For example my 4/3 12 megapixel sensor has a sensor cell of about 5 micrometers, which correlates to f11. Even with a full frame sensor of 10 micrometers, the limit is about f16.
Excellent video, it solves all my questions in 13 mins )
Small depth of field – small f/stop
Large depth of field – Large f/stop
youtube is the best university in the world
Thanks! 😀
thank you
2019-2-12 首次阅览
拍得很好，继续加油
The book is very informative. Love it!
Thank You, Tony and Chelsea. As a beginner, I learned so much with this video.
Hi guys, I'm a little confused and hoping for clarity. If I should be reading f-stop numbers like fractions (example: f/1 is a larger fraction than f/16) then why does Chelsea mention opening up the aperture by setting the f-stop lower while using f/1.95 as a "lower number". Should I just remove the 'f' and assume the larger number (denominator) is less blur and smaller number (denominator) is more blur? I'm clearly a beginner and trying to understand this. Thank you for clarifying. (For reference: 1:12 is where I begin to get confused).
we are in 2019 and out of all the videos ive seen, these videos have helped me the most!
I failed algebra so many times they finally passed me out of pity. I have watched this video over and over and my brain just shuts down when numbers come up in the formula. Lord help me, I want so bad to grasp aperture and fstop, but I am math handicap. Do you have any tips for the algebraic and geometrically challenged goof?
I believe it's a lot more useful to watch this vid multiple times than once. Also, Tony and Chelsea you both are so beautiful.
This "Tutorial" starts out with a common misconception by stating that Aperture is measured in f/stops. It is NOT. It is measured in mm. f/stop is a calculation of focal length of the lens divided by the aperture (in mm).
Nice one, thanks for both of u…..
Wait dis is not portal 2 video…. Hmmm
Really great video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpPdcr6CRts&t=20s My New Canon 5D Mark IV . Thanks for like. Best Regards. TNYHL
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perfect!!!
Really enjoy your explaination!
👍👍👍
This is how people should be taught.
anyone else feel an urge to punch Tony
Informative, to the point and simplified. This video earned a new subscriber.
I apologize for the seemingly silly question but I'm really trying to understand this: with respect to depth of field, if you only have two subjects at two different distances from the camera, how do you focus 1/3 the distance between your closest and furthest subject if there is only airspace (and the background in the distance) between them? When you say 1/3 the distance, are you talking about the distance from the camera to subjects (forward and backward) or are you talking about moving the lens left and right within the plane the first subject is within? Won't I be focusing within the background area behind both subjects either way?
Should I make use of the len's autofocus to lock onto the closest subject and then manually change the fstop until the farthest subject is visually in focus (on screen)?
Thank you for your patience.
Awesome video. Very informative. Thank you.
No wedding bands? Are you two brother and sister?
I just realized: Tony looks like Anderson Cooper…
FYI ISO – International Organization for Standardization–know your stuff!!!!!!
It's worth noting that the aperture of your lens will always be wide open, and only at the moment you take the picture it shrinks to the chosen diameter. (That is the "hissing" sound you hear when you take the picture, next to the clacking sound of the mirror tipping up.)
The reason is that if it were set to for instance f:22 you would hardly see anything in the viewfinder, and the camera wouldn't be able to make good measurements.
As a consequence you cannot rely on the depth of field you're seeing in the viewfinder; unless you're taking a picture with the lens wide open you'll always see a (much) shallower depth of field than what you'll get on your picture. I don't know if this is a common feature, but my camera has a button under the lens to temporarily change the aperture to the chosen value, so (given enough light) you can actually see the depth of field you'll get.