You can (and should) also read my blog post about this:
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Blog:
“Went West”, my first book:
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GEAR I USE
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Film Photography
Bronica MF Camera –
50mm f/3.5 –
150mm f/4 –
250mm f/5.6 –
Tripod –
Mechanical Shutter Release –
Lee Filters Holder –
10-stop ND filter –
15-stop ND filter –
Holga MF “Toy” Camera –
Scanner –
Videos, a combination of:
Sony a6500 –
16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 –
21mm f/1.4 –
55-210mm f/4.5-6.3 –
Memory card for 4k –
Cage –
Microphone –
Tripod –
Mavic Pro –
RX100ii –
Misc
Backpack –
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Vlogging about photography (mostly landscape) and all kind of camera gear, digital and analog.
Thanks a lot for this. I was planning on getting a spot light meter, but i think you just saved me the trouble. I'll test it with E-6 and see what happens!
Another very helpful video.
Which settings on the dtgitall, Matrix or Average?
Very interesting! So the coloured filters would show what the difference would look like in the digital preview?
For example, red filters make skies look dark so if you were to put your digital to BnW mode and out the red filter on, would the sky look dark?
Exposing for the shadows with digital,goes against the tried and proven rule ''expose for highlights ''without clipping''… the reason being that more information is available to the right of the histogram.
Commentary works for HP5 and perhaps most b/w and color neg C41 film – less so for slide E6 film. Digital sensor screen and film emulsion latitudes vary though, spot metering can also be important.
Oh!!! What is necessary!!!
That is amazing! Never saw that before 🙌🙌🙌
Hello adri thanks for sharing all your findings. Im really liking the Bronica!!
I appreciate that you can use the digital camera to approximate your film exposure, but you can use the "Sunny 16" rule and haul nothing extra around. If you are just shooting film, then the digital camera as a meter is more size, weight and less accurate than almost any meter. Finally, the dynamic ranges of a digital sensor and HP-5 are going to be quite different, so using the camera to set under and over exposure on film for a given digital effect is unlikely to work reliably. Exposure adjustment to filters – same issue. The digital camera is good to learn the image effects of exposure adjustment, filters and such, but once you learn, IMO move on to a real meter for predictable accuracy.
Gracias por el aporte.Me he dedicado estos días a analizar las diferencias de pasos exposición entre los filtros de color para llevarlos a la TLR ,usando la cámara digital.Me refiero ,no a la medición que me dé la cámara ,sino al hecho de que diferencia ahí de pasos entre poner o no poner determinado filtro en el objetivo y llevarlo a la TLR .Aunque yo veo que a tí te funciona con la sony ,tengo entendido que los isos que señalan ciertas marcas fotográficas ,creo que nikon se lleva el premio,no estoy seguro,….no son correspondidas a un ASA analógico,un 400 ASA puede llegar a ser un 320 iso en ciertos modelos de cámara.No sé hasta que límite pueda el film compensar.Otra prueba que hice fue poner los filtros delante de un lightmeter Sekonic antiguo para ver la diferencia de medición,y algo incómodo ya es ,pero bastante preciso.Esos lightmeter tienen tamaño pero no pesan nada……….En cuanto a medir a sombras o luces y cuanto contraste o detalle haya entre ambos dependerá de que película también?……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….hanks Thank you for the contribution. I have spent these days analyzing the differences of exposure steps between the color filters to take them to the TLR, using the digital camera. I mean, not to the medition that the camera gives me, but to the fact of what difference there is between putting or not putting a certain filter on the lens and taking it to the TLR. Although I see that it works for you with sony, I understand that the isos thatsign on to certain cameras, I think nikon takes the award, I'm not sure, …. are not matched to an analog ASA, a 400 ASA can be a 320 iso in certain camera models. I do not know until what limit the film can compensate. Another test I did was to put the filters in front of an old Sekonic lightmeter to see the difference in medition, and something uncomfortable is already, but quite accurate. Those lightmeter have size but do not weigh anything ……
In terms of measuring shadows or lights and how much contrast or detail there is between both will depend on what film we are using too ,no?
Nice. I actually just tried this last weekend. I shoot Acros and I have a Fuji X100F. I brought my Hasselblad, Leica M6, my X100F, and my Sekonic to shoot four scenes bracketed at +-1 stop. I had more shots with my Leica so I tried a bunch other things as well. Unfortunately I’ve not developed any of the rolls yet to check the results.
Nice job… I think I understand now why one would use a digital camera as a light meter. I especially like the filter trick. The problem I have is that I shoot a lot of expired film, very often with ISOs lower than 100, and sometimes as low as ISO 1, so in that case I’d use my smartphone app. BTW, I just picked up a 40mm for my SQ-Ai, and it’s amazing.