Best lens for travel photography

For me , 24-105 f/4 L . It is the best I can afford , it is stabilised, so even with the f4 max apeture , it is still very usable in low light ,particularly with the better high iso performance of my 6d . I carry an 85mm f1.8 for shallow DOF.
Compared to the micro 4/3 systems , it is bulky but it is better in this regard than my old 7d setup.

Very honest information.

Very nice video and stunning images, Mitch! As a Fujifilm X-System landscape and product photographer, I use one of the lenses you showed, the Fujinon XF16-55 f/2.8, for its' near-prime sharpness, versatility, and weather-sealed build quality. Since I shoot tripod-mounted 99% of the time, I don't miss IBIS, and don't shoot video or wide open, since I want foreground and background in focus. As I don't shoot scenes with people, perhaps this is a stupid question, but what's your stance on model releases for recognizable subjects in your images? One more question if I may…Have you noticed any appreciable difference in lens sharpness between the various systems you have used? Thank you sir!

Thanks for the insights. Based on this material I did purchase my first DSLR. I was owning mirror analog camera Zenit from the '80 more then a decade a go. Then it got damaged at some point and I was not into digital cameras as they were confusing for me on how they operate. I finally gave it a go but was never into full frame due to bulkiness.
I bought Leica 15mm F/1.7 as you mentioned on your video and put it on m4/3 Lumix GX-80/85 about year ago. I really love prime lenses and it is my first one – it has phenomenal image quality at aperture 4. I preffer to shoot between F/2.8-8 for best image quality. I've added X-Rite pocket color calibration and Manfrotto ND 8, 64, 500. Now I'm planning to add Godox TT350 speedlight with X1 remote trigger – just waiting for shipment from aliexpress (30-60 days, grr… but cost me 130USD total).
Actually it seems you never use flash but only ambient light but it would be interesting to know why or I'm maybe wrong – would be nice to see some video about this subject! I am currently into OCF and HSS to overcome the harsh sunlight and expose proper ambient light without underexposure of subject matter or opposite. The GX-80/85 cannot act as master or trigger for other speedlights in sync mode and is also limited up to 160 shutter with build in flash. So during daylight when I expose for ambient and then intend to lid with flash my subject sometimes it gets tricky so I've to use ND filter or as I intend to in future use speedlight with high speed synchronization.
This set works really nice for me for travel and street photography which I do the most. I work as global consultant and travel a lot across the world – about 65% of travel. Unfortunately don't have a time due to work to explore far away from mainstream but I try to search my niche and actually avoid for the most part places where tourists do their shots.
What I don't like about the camera is that I'm not able to set minimal shutter speed on Aperture mode with auto ISO. I end up quite often with blurry images when some action is going on at night or poor lighting. In other hand I do not like Shutter priority mode because it tends to go on Aperture extremes which result in less image quaity. I would go into Manual mode istead but sometimes when ambient is constantly changing I miss opportunity or end up with bad composition. To overcome this I just learned that Lumix has iISO which suppose to detect movement in frame and jump ISO up – I was aware about the setting but did not know what it does until just now. Therefore I will be testing it out. Still it is weard that Lumix refuse to put minimal shutter speed option on the majority of their systems.
There is also a bug in software when using touch screen as AF point selection – when you set it as AF only it actually also set up AE too. I tend to use presets C1-3 all in A mode but one with AFC on-hold on back button and other two with AE on-hold on back button but with pin-point AE and AFS or central-weight AE and central one block AFS. BTW the idea of using touch screen for AF point selection is really nice to have and its something that I find not many cameras offer. In my early days I disabled it because I am left eye dominant so I was touching it with my nose from time to time. But aiming from center and re-composing has some drawbacks as you may still loose a bit of focus. So I've learned to use it.

What I've learned so far is that it is hard to do your first purchase when you don't know much about photography or even if you know basically this stuff is expensive and most people have only one or two shots at this or they are stuck with something that is ending up not best for them for a long time or they give up with some loss when they get rid off this equipment.
Therefore my advise is to find someones photography that you like and learn from them what was their journey and what they use. Therefore thaks MItchell for sharing that experience! Before you buy your setup keep in mind that camera and lens is part of the story – diverse you budget into additional stuff that you will need. IMO it should be some ND filters, external speedlight, color calibration pallet and hardware/software for your monitor. Some learning materials, and software like photoshop and lightroom or rawtherapee (much better tool then lightroom) and GIMP (monolyph for raster imaging). The selection of all of this tools will increase by far your overall capability, knowledge and better photography then even more expensive camera or lens.
The most important part is to stay with whatever you choose long enough to understand all what it is and it is not capable of doing. Only then you will know what you care about and what is indifferent for you when you do your next purchase. Stick with your camera for a year or two and nail absolutately everything it has to offer. Use all options and functions and test them see how they work in personal workshop as well as in the field – see what works and whats not – because of good or poor design and ergonomics choices implemented by producer but also bound to your own taste and prefference.
Only then you are ready for your next and first really own personalized choice of what you want to move on next.

Thanks for awesome videos and I hope it was helpful for whomever might interest.

your photo are amazing and I just can resist to hit the subscribe.

Honest opinion…your Canon shots were significantly better than the Panasonic. The only reason the Panasonic photos look decent is because you are a really good photographer

Thank you for this excellent video. For the last few years I’ve shot exclusively with an apsc 35 1.8 with iOS on my Nikon D7200 It was a dream come true. In trying to be smaller and lighter I switched to a Fuji xt3 with a 23 2.0. Im a one lens primary only type of guy. I like the learning curve of the 23 but have to say it is very limiting to me as a portrait photographer. The 35 apsc is the one lens I would choose to shoot anything, anywhere. I’m not a fan of Fuji’s ancient lens technology but I am quite pleased with the xt3 for stills, not so much for video. Having said that the D7200 is a far superior still camera in almost every way.

As an amateur I agree. I travel for long periods of time, I use PENTAX cameras, and my go to lens is the 17-70 2.8 SIGMA.

Great video, I love your content!
I shoot primarily with a full frame DSLR, and a 24-70 is definitely my most frequently used lens, but just last week I picked up a Fuji X-E1 with the 27mm pancake lens.
My DSLR is going nowhere, but so far I love having the Fuji for all the times I wouldn't feel comfortable using a larger system, or want to capture more candid moments. There's definitely room for both!

Thank you for this video. I am learning the Olympus 4/3 system and you answered a lot of my questions. I have a better understanding of video recorders( semi and professional camcorders and only used fixed prime lens cameras in the Olympus line SP 800uz that is why I stuck with Olympus. Thank you for stopping me from trying to make the camera do what it is not capable of.

Great informative video thanks

I use a Pentax K-x with a 17-70mm 2.8. if I take only one lens. And I have in-camera stabilization with Pentax.

This is probably the best production and editing quality I’ve seen for a informational video on YouTube or any viewing platform for that matter.

They… new to the channel. Great info. I’m also thinking of changing my lens set up. I shoot on the Fuji system. Everyone raves about their 56mm portrait lens. Your video doesn’t mention a prime portrait lens yet you get amazing pics. Perhaps the 16-55mm f2.8 is a better option due to being more versatile.

liked , subcribed , shared , great video , well explained , might even give that GX85 a go 😉

On question , music playing from 10:49–12:39?

sony 24 105 lens has an issue. I bought sony a7r3 and sony 24 105.I have same problem with this lady. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBsyJb6Cb0E